Restaurateurs Harun and Yavuz Bolukbasi were looking to expand their modern Turkish presence in the DC dining scene when they stumbled upon an available location that changed their initial vision. In the historic residence that was formerly home to restaurant Two Quails, the Bolukbasis saw great potential for an old Europe-style bistro. Determining French chef Kemal Deger to be the right man for the job, the pair contacted their friend and suggested a collaboration. Bistro Cacao opened its doors in December 09.

The old house filled with snug, cozy rooms and antique furnishings invites guests to get comfortable. The feeling is more akin to dining in a welcoming old home than an unfamiliar restaurant.  In a city brimming with large and often sparse eateries, Bistro Cacao’s design is refreshing.

The food, served very traditionally by chef Deger, furthers this warmly hospitable standard. Appetizers signal a good meal to come. Pheasant Pâté is rich and gamey, nicely balanced by the accompanying French cornichons. Mussels steamed in white wine are exactly as mussels should be; popped open, free of grit and bursting with flavor. And the garlicky escargots in a saffron and lime broth offer an intensely satisfying burst of flavor with each bite.

Unfortunately missteps accompany the main course; steak so undercooked it was almost purple was sent back to the kitchen and returned to the table tough and chewy from too much time on the fire. The duck and lamb were acceptably good but lacked the gusto capable of elevating them to noteworthy status.

Desserts bring the meal back to the promise delivered by the hors d’oeuvers. The flourless chocolate cake is moist, rich and decadent. The apple tart is comprised of subtly sweet apples on a soft flakey pastry. And the smooth, creamy trio of crème brulees in vanilla, cacao and raspberry stand well apart from one another with exceptional flavors.

The superior service and delightful interior indicate that Bistro Cacao is geared for success. A few improvements to the main offerings can bring the entire menu in line with the impressively good first and third courses. By deciding to venture outside of their Turkish comfort zone into unfamiliar French territory, the Bolukbasis’ gamble has certainly paid off. (Open M-F for lunch, Sat & Sun for brunch and daily for dinner. Entrees $15-$25)